'You will know it by the sparkle'.
This was the state of my desk this morning. I had gathered together a couple of dozen of my older recipe books so that I could have a quick flick through to see how much recipes for orange marmalade varied.
Some of the books were published in times of plenty, others during wartime rationing, along with three of early Victorian handwritten ones.
Few ingredients are required to make Seville Orange Marmalade, so I didn't expect there to be too many differences but I was interested to see how housewives coped during the difficult times.
The strangest recipe called for tapioca. Had I not already made my marmalade, I could have been tempted to make a tiny batch of it to satisfy my curiosity. Fortunately, I had no tapioca in the pantry and I had used all the Seville oranges anyway.
Most of the differences were in whether to cook the oranges whole, then cut them up or cut them up and soak the peel overnight, although one method called for two days of soaking with a boiling session in between.
Opinions differed on whether to use half a pound of sugar to a pound of pulp and juice or greater quantities, all the way up to one and a half pounds per pound. Boil for an hour/two hours/three hours.
Worried about when to take it from the heat? You will know it by the sparkle, according to one old cook.
Of course I had no need to go through these books, my marmalade was already sitting on the pantry shelf, but it was fun. There is no one 'right' way to make it, make it according to your taste/what is available.
I saw a recipe for cucumber marmalade, made with ginger and whisky. I won't be making that - but that darned curiosity which I have been lumbered with is still wondering.
For my marmalade I used a Nigel Slater recipe which replaced about a third of the water with pomegranate juice, just because I could and because I was curious, though I did reduce the amount of sugar he recommended.
It is a rich, slightly bitter marmalade, perfect for our tastes.